What is this mysterious tree and why does everybody on the tourist trail talk about it?
Well, it is a parasite. It latches onto a ‘host’ tree (much like our beloved, Christmas garnish, mistletoe) and feeds off it’s water and nutrients, slowly growing around it, strengthening and maturing. After years of theft, the Ficus drains the life of its victim, which eventually dies.
The host tree disintegrates. The ficus remains. Self sufficient and hollow.
Such a blood-thirsty tree exists near the town of Monteverde. You just have to find it.
Take note – this is the coolest, ‘activity’, Sam and I did in Costa Rica, and it is one hundred percent free.
With our hostel’s in-depth, hand drawn map in hand, (we stayed at Monteverde Backpackers, it was comfortable, clean and they had an abundance of kitchen facilities. I highly recommend it), we had a rough idea of where we needed to go to reach the entrance to the forest; but there are no physical signs pointing you to the tree’s location. Luckily, I took a photo of the opening and drew a helpful arrow to show future travellers where to go:
The clearing is pretty much directly opposite the Cloud Forest Lodge. Simple.
As you make your way through the trees, be aware that you will come across ‘younger’ ficuses that have just started their journey to adulthood, gorging their way around a doomed host tree. These are not ready for you to climb. The beast you’re looking for is marked with a pink ribbon near its base.
Pink ribbon attached to a tree nearby
This is the forest, sap-sucking, vampire you’re looking for.
We were there during the low season, so when we arrived, we were the only two souls around. Perfect. Time for a photo shoot.
Although this didn’t last long. We were too eager to climb the beautifully intricate bark ladder in front of us.
Setting off up the trunk
We took one backpack between us. Necessary items, such as cameras, phones and a selfie stick, were thrown into it, while unnessary items like, water and raincoats, were discarded near the base. Sam kindly agreed to take it with her, as I am ever so slightly (cough, understatement) claustrophobic, and would have completely freaked out trying to squeeze myself through the final twists and turns towards the top of the tree.
Sam went first, sussing out the situation. The tree itself is like a natural ladder. But some ‘steps’ are a bit steeper than others, so you need to be very aware of where you place each foot, especially when coming down.
I’m not going to place a fluffy shroud over it by saying it is easy, because the last few hoists and heaves up through the trunk are quite strenuous. You need to have an indoor rock-climbing head on. You really need to think carefully about how to distort your body and where to place your feet in order to drag yourself up through the narrow passage.
Near the top of the tree
So the best part about this adventure, is that you don’t have to enjoy it solo. Once you’re at the top, as long as you are extremely careful, a couple of you can step out of the tunnel, and onto the canopy. I reckon you could fit three or four people up there at the most. As there was only two of us, and my travel buddy, Morgan Bear, who, as per usual, gets a free ride in the backpack, we were able to take some awesome photos of us enjoying the views of the valley over the treetops.
Standing on top of the canopy
You don’t need a guide, you don’t need a harness, you don’t need to pay hundreds of dollars, you simply need to be fearless of heights and know how to climb. It’s like regressing back to your childhood instinct of, ‘I could totally get up there’. Granted, when you’re a kid, you often get stuck and need the help of your dad to get you down, but not this time.
Admiring the Ficus from the terra-firma
Again, Sam went first, assessing the path ahead. Barking (excuse the pun) instructions to stop me panicking. And together, we did it. We reached terra firma, retrieved our belongings and gave a quick, friendly briefing, to a couple waiting patiently at the bottom.
I mean, it’s not difficult to achieve, but when you’re in the middle of the forest, by yourselves, you can’t help but think about the accidents that could happen as you haul your way up through the middle of a phantom tree. But once you get past that initial fear, it is the coolest thing you can do in Costa Rica.
All smiles after the adventure
And I repeat. It is free.
If you do one thing in this adrenaline filled country, (and you won’t, you’ll do much more), do this.
Just make sure you have travel insurance.
This post was completed in Sugar Cane Hostel in Medellín, Colombia. It was written to the sound of city birds and the odd spot of traffic.
Kinaesthesia 